“Condo Cooking with Duncan Hines” — Our Adventures in Good Eating and in Good Cooking, part 3

Our Adventures in Good Eating and in Good Cooking
“Condo Cooking with Duncan Hines”
Part 3 in a series of 3
 (with recipes for Welsh Rabbit & Quick Brown Sugar Drop Cookies)

            During our month long stay in south Texas we certainly had our fair share of adventures in good eating as we sampled the local cuisine and that of some of our condo neighbors. But, our adventures also included some cooking adventures in our own condo kitchen.
            We knew our condo had the basics, but we prefer our own equipment and tools so that meant storage boxes packed full of pots, pans, cooking utensils, cookie sheets, bread pans, spices and the condiments.
OVERLOAD! Yes, we are guilty of overpacking, usually way too many clothes, but in this case, way too many pots, pans, knives, tools, you name it!
            As we planned our trip, I figured that while Barry played golf, it would be an ideal time for me to try out at least a few of the recipes I’ve pinning on Pinterest or that I have clipped from the internet. Then, when I received two cookbooks for Christmas that only added to my list of recipes to try.
             Adventures in Good Cooking” and “The Dessert Book” are both reprints of two of Duncan Hines’ original cookbooks, Christmas gifts from his great niece, Cora Jane Spiller of Bowling, Green, Kentucky.
            For those who are unaware—Duncan Hines is more than just a face on a box of cake mix, he was, indeed, a real person. A connoisseur of good food, he traversed the roads of the U.S. during a time when many travelers died of food poisoning especially at eating establishments along highways and in small towns. In an effort to avoid what Hines referred to as "dirty, greasy spoon" food he began jotting down the names of places to eat in a little “red” book. As he shared this list with fellow salesman and friends, his reputation grew and in 1936 he published his first of many restaurant guides, “Adventures in Good Eating.” Eventually he offered metal sinage – “Recommended by Duncan Hines” – that was available to those eating establishments that consistently earned high ratings.  
            Then in 1939 he put began asking restaurant owners to share recipes in order to satisfy the public’s demand for a Duncan Hines cookbook. Many of the recipes were first tested in his sister’s kitchen; all had to be approved before making it into the book which also contained some or his own recipes and some from family, friends and his dinner detectives (volunteers who gladly sent suggestions and checked that area restaurants were maintaining quality standards).     
            During our time in Texas, our cooking adventures were quite varied but mine did include some of the recipes from Duncan Hines’ cookbooks. Here’s a couple that I’d like to recommend:

Welsh Rabbit
Source: Mrs. Duncan Hines, Bowling Green, Kentucky
My Notes: When Hines was home he liked to dine on simple, everyday fare. As far as the origin of this recipe, it seems to date back to the 18th-century with variations coming out of England, Scotland and Ireland. Popular in taverns, one legend claims that Welsh peasants were not allowed to eat rabbits caught in hunts on the estates of the nobility so they used melted cheese as a substitute. Some more modern day references refer to this dish as “rarebit.” I have attempted to retype the recipe as it appears in “Adventures in Good Cooking,” however I have added a few notations along the way (they appear in parenthesis).

1 tablespoon butter
1 ½ tablespoons (all-purpose) flour
½ teaspoon cayenne (pepper)
½ teaspoon salt
2 lbs. sharp American cheese* (I used sharp Cheddar)
1 cup milk, sweet (sweet referring to not sour; I used whole)
2 eggs
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1.  Melt butter in double boiler (I just used a sturdy pan set at medium heat).
2.  Mix dry ingredients together (flour, cayenne, salt) and add to melted butter. Stir.
3.  Cut cheese up into small pieces (I grated mine) and add gradually to above mixture until all cheese has been used as is beginning to melt.
4.  Heat milk slightly and add to above, stirring in thoroughly. (For ease, I heated the milk in the microwave on low.)
5.  Beat eggs together and add the Worcestershire to the eggs. Gradually stir this mixture into the above, and cook until smooth. (You can also temper the eggs first—add a little cheese sauce to the beaten eggs, stirring as the sauce is added.)


6.  Serve on think toast or crisp crackers.
The success of your rabbit, as a general rule, depends upon the quality of the cheese used. Poor quality cheese sometimes will make the rabbit stringy instead of smooth and creamy as it should be. Be sure to use a rich, well-aged cheese.

*Cheddar is a hard cheese, an English cheese, while we tend to think of American cheese as a smooth and creamy processed cheese (aka Velvetta®). So did Mrs. Hines use an American made Cheddar-style cheese or a cheese such as Velvetta? Because of the added note about using “a rich, well-aged cheese,” I’m assuming she used an American made Cheddar since there is no aging involved in the production of processed cheeses, and it is the traditional cheese for this dish.


Quick Brown Sugar Drop Cookies   Makes 7 dozen
Source: The Hearthstone, Winnetka, Illinois (as it appears the 1939 edition of “Adventures in Good Cooking” with the exception of my notes that appear in parenthesis.)
 
1 lb. butter (4 sticks; soften at room temperature)
2 cups (packed) brown sugar
2 egg yolks
3 ½ cups (all-purpose) flour
2 teaspoons vanilla
(2 to 3 tablespoons milk or just enough to make the dough cohesive)
1 (to 2 ) cup(s) chopped nuts (it took about twice as many as the recipe called for; pecans were my nut of choice since pecan trees abound in Texas; we literally filled our pockets, picking up the excess on streets and sidewalks during our daily walks)

1.  Mix all ingredients, except for the nuts, together. (If the dough is dry, add some additional milk to make it cohesive.)
2.  Drop mixture from the end of a teaspoon into the nuts. (I scooped out some dough, rolled it in a ball and then rolled each ball in pecans; it would take less if just the top of the ball was dotted with pecans but we liked the excess.)
After rolling the dough into balls, I then rolled then in chopped pecans .
3.  Place on a baking sheet (it didn’t mention whether or not to grease the sheet but I did spray it and I left several inches between the cookies).
4.  Bake in (preheated) 400° to 450· F. oven for (8 to)10 minutes. (400° was plenty hot! Maybe ovens weren’t as hot in the 1930s!)

            And, speaking of recommendations, I highly recommend Louis Hatchett’s current reprints of Duncan Hines’ cookbooks plus his biography about the man whose name eventually became synonymous with cake mixes:

1.  “Adventures in Good Cooking” by Duncan Hines, edited by Louis Hatchett  (University Press of Kentucky, 2014) and “Adventures in Good Cooking and the Art of Carving in the Home by Duncan Hines, edited by Louis Hatchett (Mercer University Press, 2002)  —a collection of dishes that restaurant owners across the U.S. shared with Hines, beginning in 1939.
2.  “The Dessert Book” (University Press of Kentucky, 2014; Mercer University Press, 2002) – original printed in 1955, this cookbook is full of delicious sweet treats.
3.  “Duncan Hines: How a Traveling Salesman Became the Most Trusted Name in Food” by Louis Hatchett  (University Press of Kentucky, 2014) or his earlier edition: “Duncan Hines: The Man Behind the Cake Mix” by Louis Hatchett (Mercer University Press, 2001). Both books chronicle the life of a man whose love of good food led to his name becoming one of the most recognizable brand names on grocery shelves of America, and whose influence is paved the way for cleaning up the food service industry and was instrumental in creating today’s food safety and sanitation standards.

1st article in the series: 

“Independent Eating (and drinking) Establishments in South Texas— Our Adventures in Good Eating

Eating German Crepes Made by a Canadian in South Texas ... and more!


Our Adventures in Good Eating
Part 2 in a series of 3
“A Few Culinary Surprises in South Texas”
by Meta Newell West

            We expected lots of BBQ, Mexican and regional food on our month long stay in south Texas and we found it, but we were also treated to home cooked meals by fellow condo dwellers in New Braunfels, TX.
            After a long drive, we were in the process of unpacking our car when a neighbor stopped with an invitation to a supper party. Joe and Dorine are long-time winter Texans, part of a group that spends a lot of time socializing in their home away from home. Dorine’s Minnesota-style homemade chicken soup was the best welcome ever and a fun way to reacquaint ourselves with many of the people we met last year during a week long stay in the area.
             That was just the beginning. Wednesday morning was coffee and doughnut time in the clubhouse. If and when it was warm enough (it was unseasonable cold in south Texas in January), we met at the pool in late afternoons for drinks. There were football gatherings, with snacks of course, Bloody Mary Sunday following breakfast tacos at Los Gallos, and a Minnesota-style ham and scalloped potato dinner at the Reynolds. People in the area just enjoy getting together, and food and drink are usually involved.
            Another interesting get-together was a crepe party hosted by a Canadian couple. Rudy made stacks and stacks of crepes that guests filled with all kinds of fresh fruit, nuts, whipped cream and maple syrup. But, the crowning glory was Sandy’s vanilla sauce, a perfect accompaniment to a fun brunch, and they even shared the recipe!

CREPES — GERMAN PANCAKES    Makes 10 crepes.
Although we usually think of crepes as a French culinary delight, the Germans also prepare a very thin pancake as well. That's fitting since these crepes were served in New Braunsfels, TX, a community founded by German settlers in 1845.
Recipe courtesy of Rudy Froese, Winnipeg, Canada.

1 ½ cups all-purpose flour    
½ teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 ½ cups whole or 2% milk, divided use
½ teaspoon white vanilla

1.  Make a well in the flour and add salt, unbeaten eggs, and 1 cup milk.
2.  Beat with mixer or by hand until free from lumps. Add remainder of milk and vanilla, continue beating to make a very thin batter. Do not over beat, no foam.
3.  Let batter rest in refrigerator over night. This removes the air bubbles.
4.  Next day, before using, stir batter and add an additional ½ cup of milk, stir.
5.  Bake in heavy iron skillet—heating until it begins to smoke when butter is brushed on; pour approximately ⅓ cup of batter into hot skillet, tilt the skillet so a thin layer covers entire bottom of pan. Bake on medium heat until dough is set and starts to curl on the edge, then flip the crepe. The second side only takes 20 seconds to brown.
Rudy stacks crepes on a plate and stores any leftovers in the refrigerator. They also freeze well but you might one to separate them with sheets of wax paper or plastic wrap for easy separation.
Rudy's pan of choice for making evenly browned crepes — a Lodge brand 10 1/2" low-sided skillet.

Note: While French crepes use a combination of equal parts milk and water (sometimes mineral water), crepes made in other European countries often use all milk for the liquid.
VANILLA WHITE SAUCE FOR CREPES  Makes enough sauce for 8 people 
Serve this warm over crepes, pancakes, waffles or even bread pudding for a real treat.
Recipe courtesy of Sandy Froese, Winnipeg, Canada.

⅓ cup granulated sugar
1 ½ cups whole or 2% milk
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 ½ tablespoons butter or margarine
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1.  In a 1-quart glass bowl, stir sugar and cornstarch together.
2.  Gradually add enough of the milk to make a smooth paste.
3.  Stir in the remainder of the milk.
4.  Microwave, uncovered on medium high for 5 to 6 minutes until sauce is bubbly and thickened. Stir in butter and vanilla.
5.  Serve warm or chilled. When making big batches of this sauce for a crepe party, Sandy keeps the sauce warm in a slow cooker set on low.

EATING GERMAN CREPES MADE BY A CANADIAN IN SOUTH TEXAS—Sandy's delicious vanilla sauce oozes out of Rudy's fruit & nut filled crepe topped with whipped cream. 


“Independent Eating (and drinking) Establishments in South Texas— Our Adventures in Good Eating, part 1

Barry and Meta on their travels
through south Texas.
Normally my blog entries feature recipes, but after a recent trip to south Texas I couldn't resist writing about the places we ate. This is the first of three articles about our trip. The other two do contain recipes! 

Our Adventures in Good Eating
 “Independent Eating (and drinking) Establishments in South Texas”
            Part 1 in a series of 3
                                                                        
            Adventures in Good Eating is the title of the 1935 book written by Duncan Hines. In it, he recommends restaurants he’s eaten in as he’s traversed the roads of America as a traveling salesman. As Barry and I set out for a month-long stay in south Texas, it was a chance to do the same.

            We started off with fall-off-the-bone baby back ribs at the Gristmill Restaurant and Bar, in the Gruene Historic District, with hearty sides of their rustic mashed potatoes, creamy coleslaw and signature Gruene beans (tomato & bacon based green beans). The restaurant overlooks the Guadalupe River and was built in 1977 from the remaining structure of a water-powered cotton gin that burned to the ground in 1922; the multi-level facility can seat 950 people. Full of stone fireplaces and its fair share of taxidermy, it is a popular choice of locals and tourists. The atmosphere is definitely casual but not nearly as casual as the no-frills smokehouse in Luling, TX. The City Market is another well-known and fun spot for down-home BBQ, ordered straight from the pitmaster, served on butcher paper and picnic-style tables. We can attest that the ribs are tender and that the smoked sausage is spicy and quite tasty, despite the smoky surroundings.
Fall-off-the-bone baby back ribs at the Gristmill, Guene, TX.
            Locals and winter Texans crow about the breakfast tacos at Los Gallos (translation: the rooster) Taco House, and we joined the Sunday tradition while in New Braunfels, TX. Just one of the eaterie’s specialties, they come wrapped in authentic white corn tortillas or flour tortillas and can be filled with your choice of scrambled eggs, bacon, chorizo, potatoes, beans, nopalitos (prickly pear cactus) and much more.
Breakfast Tacos at Los Gallos, New Braunfels, TX.
         You won’t leave hungry at Blake’s in McQueeney, TX, where they serve up half pound to one-pound portions of prime rib and offer an array of comfort food-style sides including irresistible, small loaves of dark bread and  really creamy mac and cheese. The one hundred-year-old building that houses this restaurant is filled with an eclectic mix of dĆ©cor.
Barry's one-pound portion of prime rib at Blake’s in McQueeney, TX.

          Barry could hardly wrap his mouth around the his BIG blue-cheese burger in Johnson City’s Pecan Street Brewing, and I couldn’t stay out of his fries which were some of the best I’ve ever tasted despite the fact that I really enjoyed my wood-fired pesto pizza.

          There was some fine dining, too, at Huisache Grill in historic downtown New Braunfels. The restaurant bills their fare as “creative contemporary cuisine with fresh regional ingredients,” and it was certainly all that and more! Barry, Donna and Bob Masters (from South Dakota) dined on salmon en papillote (they referred to it as Seattle-style but either way it means that the salmon is encased and baked in parchment paper, resulting in a delicate and moist entrĆ©e) while I thoroughly enjoyed my farm-raised blackened catfish.



          A walk in historic downtown New Braunfels is not complete without a stop at Naegelin’s Bakery, the oldest continuous-operating bakery in Texas. The sweet aromas that meet you at the door certainly tempt the taste buds even before you behold the cases of baked delights—pies, cookies, cinnamon rolls, coffee cakes, cakes, bread, rolls, pretzels, all sorts of pastries and donuts, and strudels. While visiting a local heritage museum we had learned that the German immigrant who started the bakery in 1868 arrived in the U.S. with only a sack of flour and a few dollars. 

 
          There were plates stacked with the legendary onion rings at Clear Springs Restaurant (New Braunfels). Lots of fried dishes appear on the menu along with a nice selection of Cajun fare (the gumbo was thick, spicy and really good).


         Of course a trip to south Texas would not be complete without a stop at The Luckenbauh Bar. Housed in the old Post Office (built in 1850), it’s located right behind the General Store. It’s hard to find a place to sit but definitely a fun place to down a cold one. It’s reminder that a place doesn’t have to be fancy to draw a crowd. And, of course, “everybody’s somebody in Luckenbauch, Texas.”

Summary of  Independent eating (and drinking) establishments we recommend in southern Texas: